Monday, June 11, 2012

Tram 28 and the weird cemetery

For a change of pace today, we did some sightseeing aboard Tram 28, Lisbon's best tram. Our meninos (boys) enjoyed it, and we all needed an easier day.

At some point, everybody had to get off the tram (?), so we looked around and there was a cemetery across the street. We decided to check it out. It can be interesting reading the names and looking at the headstones. This cemetery is known as "Prazeres" a name which apparently stems from the neighborhood, (but oddly translates as "pleasures"). It was unusual because it featured gigantic family-sized mausoleums in crowded rows, which in aggregate, looked like a little town. La di da. A town of dead people. I snapped a few pictures.

After lunch, we visited a Port wine tasting room in the Bairro Alta district. We tried some amazing Port. Good stuff. Super smooth.

Later on, we hopped on the metro to find Versailles Pastelaria, a longstanding favorite known for its attractive setting and delicious Portuguese pastries. It did not disappoint. Yum!

For dinner, we cooked a traditional portuguese-style dinner at our apartment. (there is a small kitchen). Nikki broiled dourado, a popular local fish, with salad and potatoes and we enjoyed some wine (tinto) from our hosts.

Good day!

Sunday, June 10, 2012

Portugal day

A few nights ago, while waiting for a table at a crowded seafood place here in Lisbon, we began to chat with two women in line behind us. They spoke English, and like my mom and me, our fellow diners were also of Portuguese descent. And although they looked and sounded perfectly normal, they were Canadian. Shocking, I know. But Canadians are all right. Seriously. Soon we were sharing all sorts of information (did you know there is a big Portuguese community in Toronto? My mom mentioned Fall River Massachusetts. Neither party had heard of the others' huge enclave! Before long we were listing all the Portuguese surnames we knew (Sousa, Paiva, Mello, Raposa...) and any other Portuguese connection. "Did you know 'It's Not Easy Being Green' was written by Joe Raposo?" How about White House photographer Pete Sousa?

It occurred to me that I've poked fun at a friend of mine for engaging in the Jewish version of this dialogue. It made me realize that people just want to belong and feel connected. It was pretty cool connecting with our fellow diners. I even asked them about the Canadian healthcare system, and of course, they thought it was great.

Today was Portugal Day, celebrated in Portuguese communities all over, so that's my story.

Gulbenkian Museum

The Gulbenkian Museum in Lisbon hosts a truly amazing art collection - prized specimens from a wide range of periods, places and styles. All housed in a fairly compact museum that has both the charm and uptightness of the Norton Simon.

Saturday, June 9, 2012

Belém, Portugal

We had a great time in Belém today, and not just because we made two visits to the shrine of Portuguese pastry, and the home of "natas", Pasteis de Belém.

After some European-style transport woes, we headed straight for the natas, an egg custard pastry which is ubiquitous here. These were still warm, and made us all happy.

Next, we visited several key landmarks, most notably the Tower of Belém, a really amazing fortress built in early 16th century. We also visited the sensational Maritime Museum, a testament to Portugal's seafaring tradition, especially their amazing advances in navigation. The Portuguese were true explorers!

ps. And they really love pastry too.

Friday, June 8, 2012

Castelo de Sao Jorge

Enjoying perfect weather here in Lisbon. Today we walked in the oldest part of the city, the Alfama district. We keep getting lost in the maze of tiny twisted streets. I think we tend to forget how close places are, and we overshoot our destinations. Sometimes by quite a bit. Still, the exploring is all good.

While relaxing inside this castle we heard some beautiful live music from guitar and guitarra, the latter being a mandolin-like instrument peculiar to Portuguese culture. We also heard a fado singer join in, a melancholy and soulful musical style which is especially celebrated here in Alfama.

Thursday, June 7, 2012